Food festival for existentialists
The truth of the existence both of Bavarian cuisine and the able young practitioner who can bring it into being and make it intelligible however is, happily, at the Hilton Jeddah’s Safina restaurant in the form of visiting Munich chef Fabian Kugler. He approaches the preparation of his signature dishes at the Hilton’s Bavarian Food Festival with a clear-eyed practicality. If you like un-messed-about-with food that pretends to be nothing but what it is — good solid fare, full of flavor and as fresh as the morning dew, then this is definitely for you.
It is tempting to think that the popular urban myth that the rather serious nature of the German way of doing things might extend to their food. It is, at least here, fully justified. This is serious stuff, painstakingly sourced, perfectly prepared and simply presented.
It is a worthy reflection of 24-year old Kugler’s own rise in the world of gourmet cooking. Fascinated by cooking from an early age and taught the basics by his father, he left school early and spent three years as a pastry chef in a bakery. Convinced he wanted to go further, the determined Kugler worked another three years in a busy restaurant before turning up at the Hilton in Munich two and a half years ago a very experienced and practically-apprenticed trainee chef.
You can have all the paper qualifications you want but, when it comes to practical tasks, such as surgery, riding a bicycle or indeed cooking, nothing beats hands-on experience.
“Bavaria has many farms so fresh produce simply prepared is at the center of the cuisine,” Kugler confided. He added that the flavors are enhanced with a little seasoning and a few herbs but, as with all chefs, that throwaway clause conceals the combination and subtlety of the flavorings.
One, I found out by “other means”, is his use of fresh imported Jordanian Marjoram for his tomato and onion salad. That simple dish is transformed with the herb into a richly flavored feast with a lingering slightly sweet after-taste redolent of a sparkling summer day. Little wonder tomatoes were originally known as ‘love apples.’
No German food festival would be complete without Sauerkraut, Red Cabbage, Bread and Potato dumplings, Bavarian Leberkaese (a fabulous form of meat loaf), Roast Veal Shank and Bavaria’s famous Salt Pretzels. This one is complete!
Would the simple direct cuisine appeal to local tastes, I wondered.
Kugler was refreshingly direct on the matter. “It’s a matter of trying everything,” he said. “I am sure the red cabbage and meats will be as popular as always.” Add to that the pressed duck and the fabulous Beef Roulades stuffed with pickled cucumber and carrot and preceded by the delicately flavored fishcakes with sweet and sour potatoes and he will have a success on his hands.
Your sweet tooth is well served with desserts including Kaiserschmarrn, (a light, caramelized pancake made from a sweet batter baked in butter) homemade Apple Strudel, Bavarian Cream and many more all with an emphasis on fresh, natural produce.
Should you be unfamiliar with German food, as an introduction to the rich flavors and variety of textures you could follow Kugler’s example. His personal favorite combination of viands is his slow roast beef (soaked for several days in his own recipe marinade), bread and potato dumpling, sweet red cabbage and a touch of Sauerkraut for contrasting saltiness.
And for sweet? For my taste, Apple Strudel with a hint of cinnamon or perhaps the Kaiserschmarrn… or perhaps both? The good news is that it is a serve-yourself buffet!
“The German Bavarian food Festival will add to the culinary experience of the guests and visitors of Jeddah Hilton, and will help in exploring the culture and traditions of other countries,” said Alexander Musch Hilton’s Director of Operations. Cannot argue with that!
Guests & Visitors of Jeddah Hilton are welcome every evening at the dinner buffet in Al Safina Restaurant from Nov. 10 –17.
Be quick, fabulous Fabian flies Friday!
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